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THE MANUFACTURING OF ANCIENT STONE BEADS
In the subsequent chapters, I will delve into the marvels of ancient bead production. While this is not intended to be a scholarly treatise, it does invite you to be intrigued and inspired.
 
The intricate process of bead making, dating back to the enigmatic Indus Valley civilization, necessitated a division of labor, with craftsmen specializing in different stages of manufacture. A single artisan was unlikely to execute all the steps involved in the creation of a bead, these being:
 
• Sourcing
the material
• Shaping
• Cutting
• Polishing
• Drilling
 
In some instances, each of these steps would be performed by a different individual. However, in other cases - varying by location and era - an artisan might possess expertise in several of these areas. This compartmentalization of bead-making labor can be traced back to the ancient
Harappan culture 2500 BC.  It underscores the earliest signs of urbanism, given that civilization inherently requires a division of labor.
 

THE SURFACE
We'll commence our exploration by studying the surface of the bead and conclude at the bead hole. Over time, ancient beads acquire a sort of tarnish known as patina. Primarily, there are two types of patina: one created by time and earth, and the other by
time and human skin. Firstly, we'll examine what I've termed as the 'sweat of the earth'. This patina takes shape over decades due to the combined effects of soil, dirt, and temperature fluctuations, triggering a chemical reaction on the surface of the stone bead.
 
Excavation Patina on Ancient Beads
The term 'excavation patina' refers to the kind of patina a bead acquires, not from wear and tear, but from being buried underground for centuries. This patina can be classified into two categories: one that arises from the bead's interaction with the earth, and a more subtle sheen formed through the bead's exposure to air over thousands of years! This latter form can be observed in beads found in burial caskets. The first kind of patina I've opted to term as the 'sweat of the Earth'.

Three Kinds of Earth - Acidic, Alkaline, or Neutral PH-Value
Primarily, there are three types of soil in which beads can undergo their often millennia-long slumber: Alkaline, Acidic, or PH-neutral soil.

Three Distinct Types of 'Sweat'
The ultimate appearance of an ancient stone bead is a consequence of three types of sweat:

• The sweat of human endeavor
• The sweat from generations of human skin
• The sweat of the Earth


CALCIFICATION - THE SWEAT OF EARTH & BODY
Calcification is a process that involves the depositing of calcium salts. The calcification not only creates a unique patina on the bead but also serves as a testament to its age and history. The extent of calcification can provide clues about the bead's burial conditions, including the composition of the soil and the presence of organic matter. This calcification can manifest as a crust or a layer of white or yellow coloration, depending on the other minerals present in the soil. The texture of this calcified layer can vary, ranging from a smooth coating to a rough, chalky crust. The process takes place in a fascinating intersection of natural chemistry, human history, and artistic beauty

Calcification takes Centuries

The calcification process on the surface of the beads is slow and gradual. Over centuries, the calcium ions in the soil solution can adhere to the surface of the bead. Initially, this might just alter the coloration of the bead, creating a subtle patina. However, over time, as more and more calcium ions attach to the bead's surface, a thicker layer of calcification can form.
This often occurs in damp soil abundant in calcium, featuring a pH value either below or above 7.

The Mineral Body-Shadow
In the case of ancient beads, this process can occur when they are buried in calcium-rich environments over long periods of time, particularly in soils rich with decomposing organic matter like human remains.
Human bodies, along with many other organisms, have a significant concentration of calcium, predominantly housed in the bones and teeth. Over the course of time, as a body naturally decomposes, the calcium along with a variety of other minerals contained within the skeletal structure, are gradually released and infiltrate the surrounding soil. This particular phenomenon is commonly described as the body's "mineral shadow", a signature imprint left behind.
 
In circumstances where beads or other types of artifacts are interred in conjunction with the body, they can potentially come into contact with and absorb these released calcium salts and other minerals. This exposure often triggers a unique calcification process, distinct from other natural or environmental calcification processes.

 


 



A Burial calcificated Bead from the Indus Period. Note the thickness
of the calcified layer in the left cut side of the bead.

 

 
This suggests that beads which have been ritually interred along with their possessors, often termed "burial beads," generally exhibit a higher degree of calcification. This type of calcification, induced by proximity to decomposing remains, generally results in a far more pronounced and accelerated mineral encrustation on the surface of the beads or artifacts, provided they are composed of a material susceptible to such absorption. The resulting patina not only serves as a testament to the artifact's history but also as a tangible link to its interment alongside human remains.
 

Pictured below displays an arresting ancient agate burial eye bead. The white and yellow tints are confined only to its surface. I'm sure you would agree, the outcome is truly awe-inspiring! The distinctive clouding is likely the result of minerals, particularly calcium, permeating into the bead's surface over an extensive period.
 
 



25 * 10 mm
A mysterious colored agate Eye Bead.
 

 
It is a rare occurrence for a bead to gain additional aesthetic appeal through its interaction with the sweat of the earth, yet a fair number of Indus beads have derived their charm from the calcification process. This might be attributed to the fact that calcification is a slow and meticulous process. Over centuries, the accumulating calcification not only transforms the bead’s coloration, but also bestows it with a testament of time, embedding in it a story of the ages it has silently witnessed.

 
 



 

 
Below
can observe some more ancient beads that have been colored by the soil. Note the whitish dots on the surface of the bead. They have not contributed to the beauty of the beads.
 
 






 


Below is an image of an expansive carnelian bead. At first glance, this bead could easily be mistaken for a recently crafted piece, were it not for the subtle signature discoloration - a telltale testament to its centuries-long slumber in the caustic embrace of acidic soil.

 
 



 


Etched  Burmese carnelian bead with oil & gas patina
Featured below is an etched, elongated carnelian bead hailing from the lower region of the Kachin state in Burma. Here, the intense white hue gracing the bead's surface is not a product of the calcification processes we've previously discussed. Instead, this bead's unique patina is a result of a rare combination of oil, gas, and pressure over time, leading to a distinctive and stunning transformation of the original carnelian surface.
 
 



63 * 10,5 mm
 


Burma, being a land abundant in natural resources such as oil and gas, hosts a unique array of ancient beads exhibiting the discoloration illustrated above.
 
Excavation beads found in PH-neutral surroundings
In circumstances where a bead has been nestled in soil with a pH value below or above 7, there will invariably be noticeable chemical evidence of the bead's interaction with the earth on its surface. This would be the case even without the chemical interaction with the
"mineral shadow". of a corpse. Even when not overtly colored, as showcased by the beads above, the intricate and subtle ridges crafted during the polishing process gradually fade as the years pass.
 
However, in instances where beads have been slumbering in pH-neutral soil or, more significantly, in sand, the bead's surface can appear as if it were crafted only yesterday! The same is the case for beads found in pots or burial caskets. In such instances, the only factors capable of confirming whether the bead was created a millennium ago or more recently are the sheen of the bead and the nature and quality of its craftsmanship. Even beads that have rested in pH-neutral sand distinguish themselves from recently crafted counterparts. They possess a gentler shine and a more subdued reflection when subjected to an intense light source, particularly sunlight.

 
 



Burmese Sulemani agate bead
 


Displayed above is an exquisite ancient Burmese bead unearthed from the sandy soil of Matehtilay, Maline in Burma. Interestingly, the majority of Burma has acidic soil. Lower Burma hosts small pockets of alkaline soil. However, the central part of Burma, including regions like Matehtilay, encompasses extensive areas where the sandy soil maintains a neutral pH value. In such instances, the true age of the bead betrays itself only through its gentle sheen, referred to as patina, and the distinct intricacies of its craftsmanship. 

PH- map of Myanmar

 



Red = acid, blue = alkaline, yellow = neutral
 



The beads showcased above, alongside those displayed below, have been discovered in the indicated yellow region. In such an environment, the only influencing factor upon the beads is the air surrounding them.
 
 



Click on picture for larger image
 


Excavation patina
Excavation patina is a unique feature that emerges over time, particularly in circumstances where a bead has been buried in pH-neutral soil or safely stored in a non-reactive container, such as a clay pot, in a place free from sub-zero temperatures. Determining the age of these beads can be challenging, as there may be fewer obvious signs of age. Yet, the ceaseless interaction with time, fluctuating humidity levels, and changing temperatures results in the formation of a subtle and gentle sheen or patina on the stone bead. This understated patina softens the bead's overall appearance, bestowing an elusive but distinct indication of antiquity.

 
 



 

 
The image above showcases an excavated casket of beads from the Harappan culture. Take a moment to observe the luster of the white and brown beads. They appear as though they were freshly crafted. However, don't be fooled! These are indeed ancient artifacts. It often requires an expert's discerning eye to differentiate between the vibrant shine of a newly made bead and the "dusty" patina that adorns an ancient excavated one.


These excavated beads often bear no signs of extended wear. In many cases, they were briefly used or not used at all before they were placed in burial caskets. These beads served not only as symbols of the deceased's social status, but also as talismans or even as currency for the afterlife. At times, they were strategically positioned in the heart of Buddhist stupas, acting as revered relics intended to sanctify and purify the entire structure.

 
Oxidation Patina
The etched bead displayed below carries an original oxidation patina, a quality that is difficult to accurately represent in digital images.

Over centuries, the interaction between the bead's surface and the surrounding environment leads to an oxidative reaction, which causes the formation of an oxidation patina. This patina is essentially a thin layer that forms on the surface of the bead due to this long-term chemical reaction.
 

 




 


Oxidation patina often imparts a distinct characteristic to the bead, lending it an air of authenticity and historical significance. This patina is not just a product of aging but also of the environment in which the bead existed.
 
One of the challenges in analyzing ancient beads is that it's difficult to capture the subtle qualities of an oxidation patina through digital images. The surface changes are often subtle and can vary greatly in color, texture, and depth, making it hard to convey through a flat image. However, when observed in person, this patina often adds an extra dimension to the bead, serving as a testament to its journey through time.
 
In the case of the etched bead displayed below, the oxidation patina tells a story of its 2,000-year-long existence, subtly altering its surface while highlighting its intricate etched designs.
 

Displayed below is an exquisite hexagonal bead, which likely never saw any use and is only a few centuries old. In cases like these, determining the bead's age can pose a challenge. We must in such cases have a deeper look at the design of the bead.  Regardless of its exact timeline, one can't deny the striking beauty of this bead. Its detailed craftsmanship and unique shape offer a glimpse into the artistry and tradition of bead making.
 

 



Antique Hexagonal carnelian bead
 


The Stories in the Cracks: Age Markers of a Thousand Cold Winters
When an agate bead has had the fortune to 'sleep' for hundreds of years in areas where winter temperatures dip below zero, moisture within the bead creates small, circular cracks on its surface. This phenomenon results from the expansion of water molecules as they transform into ice.

Such elegant signs of age are mostly evident in beads from the Himalayas, Afghanistan, and other regions with frosty winters. However, beads that have been housed in warmer climates might also occasionally showcase these marks of age. In such situations, these cracks are most likely produced by sudden shifts in temperature or possibly exposure to high heat, as might be experienced in fires from funeral pyres.
 
Moreover, the manifestation of these cracks also relies on the hardness and 'porousness' of the stone. A dense agate stone bead containing minimal water or other chemical impurities can even endure the harsh winters of the Himalayas without yielding to these cracks.
 

 


  
Bhaisayaguru beads from Afghanistan with beautiful cracks
 


In the contemporary bead market, artificial methods are used to simulate the natural age markings found on genuine ancient beads. One such technique involves repeatedly transferring new beads between a microwave oven and a freezer, inducing cracks that superficially resemble those made naturally by cold winters.
 
 



Fake DZI bead
 


Examine the Dzi bead from Taiwan in the image above closely. You'll notice numerous small, artificially induced indentations on the surface. These indentations aim to mimic the appearance of ancient frost patina, but they lack the circular shape of natural cracks. Furthermore, take note of the bead's dusty sheen, another indication of artificial aging. Owing to their astronomical value, Dzi beads are among the most frequently counterfeited beads in the market. This bead, with its artificial 'cracks' and contrived sheen, is a clear example of a counterfeit bead. As such, it is vital to be aware of these deceptive practices when collecting or purchasing beads.
 

THE SWEAT AND POLISH FROM HUMAN SKIN
Beads, particularly those of antiquity, acquire a distinct patina over time, not solely from their exposure to the natural elements - earth, wind, fire - but also from consistent interaction with human skin. In essence, this is a form of human sweat patina. This process entails the chemical reaction between the bead's surface and the natural oils and salts found in human sweat.

The polishing of a bead doesn't end when it's removed from the tumbler or detached from its maker's polishing stone. At that point, human skin assumes the role of polisher. As the bead is passed down from one generation to the next, it undergoes a slow-motion relay race, undergoing subtle changes in texture and appearance throughout its journey.

The human skin, in this context, acts as a soft, biological abrasive. It gradually smoothes and polishes the bead over the years, contributing to its final look, a look that is a constant work in progress as the bead continues to interact with human skin.

Beads have held significant cultural and spiritual importance across various cultures since the Neolithic era. These ancient societies often attributed magical or mystical powers to beads. This could potentially explain why beads were so often in contact with human skin, being worn regularly as adornments or amulets. The human sweat patina is not just a mark of age but a testament to the bead's intimate relationship with human history, culture, and belief systems over centuries.


Shamanic sweat & rechargeable talismans

In ancient times, long before religion became formalized and organized, each clan or tribe had a shaman. Serving as a conduit, the shaman negotiated and facilitated the communication between the invisible spirit realm and the mundane world of everyday human existence. The wearing of beads in these societies was not a mere adornment but a protective act - a shield against the myriad of spirits believed to reside in caves, mountains, waterfalls, and trees in the animistic worldview.

As time progressed, the role of the shaman evolved or was supplanted by holy men or priests. Nevertheless, in cultures where beads were believed to possess magical properties, it was crucial for these beads to be worn in direct contact with the skin, preferably close to the heart. Consequently, we see numerous ancient beads that bear the marks of prolonged skin contact.

Holy Capital
While it wasn't only the shamans or holy men who wore beads, their significance in religious contexts cannot be underestimated. For instance, in India, the commonly used term for beads, "Babagoria" or "Baba Ghori", translates to "holy man's bead", reflecting the deep-rooted belief that these beads were primarily worn by religious leaders. An ancient Indian scripture from the Gupta period, Vijjalagga, even posits that a bead's value is enhanced through the act of wearing it (Indian Beads, Shantaram B. Deo, p.15). The concept that a bead acquires greater 'holy capital' if worn by a holy figure, be it a Sufi, Buddhist, or Hindu saint, is prevalent even among contemporary bead collectors.
 
This intricate relationship between the wearer and the bead goes beyond mere possession. It is believed that a bead worn by a person with good karma initiates a cyclical exchange of spiritual energy. The holy person imbues the bead with their positive energy, which the bead then stores and radiates back to the wearer.

It's in this context that the term "Rechargeable Talisman" emerges - a bead isn't merely an inanimate object, but an active participant in spiritual energy exchange, gaining, storing, and emanating holy power.

 

 




RB 8    - 18 * 13 mm - Hexagon
Super ancient Proto Elamite carnelian bead -
'polished' and charged with spiritual DNA since the beginning of the bronze age.
 

 
A human polishing process stretching over generations
The process of human polishing is not an event but an epoch. One lifetime of wear isn't sufficient to imbue the bead with the characteristic, almost skin-like shine of generations of touch. This transformation takes several generations of contact, wear, and polishing before a bead can fully mature in its aesthetic appeal.

Pause for a moment, and behold the bead displayed above. Its journey across generations and lives is evident in its sheen - it is as if beads themselves believe in the concept of reincarnation.

Below, you will observe a breathtaking ancient banded agate bead. Generations of contact have softened its surface, imparting a patina that is nothing short of a royal seal of antiquity. This soft sheen cannot be faked, nor can it be hastily acquired. Note also the edges of the small crack on the right side of the bead - such signs are trustworthy indicators of authentic age in a stone bead. Similar to how continuous waves polish stones on the seashore, the unending encounter of human skin and bead polishes the bead over time.
 
In India, there exist sacred fireplaces where the duty of keeping the flame alive has been passed down from guru to student across countless generations. Drawing a parallel, it is not far-fetched, especially when considering the timeless continuity of India, to imagine that there exist stone beads that have been in constant contact with human skin since the dawn of civilization!

 
 



Ancient bead worn for several generations

 


This revelation positions beads not merely as the oldest form of art, but also as the most persistent and unchanging art form in the annals of human history. Consider this - the stone bead you see below, worn by me in the present, could very well have adorned the neck of a Neolithic individual some 8000 years ago. Such continuity, such survival of beauty and significance through thousands of years, is nothing short of awe-inspiring. It's a testament to the enduring human spirit and the timeless allure of personal adornment, making beads a physical embodiment of our collective human story. If this doesn't inspire awe, it's hard to imagine what will.
 

 



Neolithic bead

 


Indeed, the contrast can be stark. The Luk Mik bead pictured below has a decidedly new sheen. While it may be difficult to discern in a web photograph, there's a distinct difference that becomes evident upon closer examination. The surface of the bead gleams brightly, untouched by the gentle abrasion of human skin and the wear of time. It acts almost like a mirror, reflecting light directly rather than softly diffusing it.
 
 



New Luk Mik bead
 


This is a stark contrast to the other bead displayed earlier. The older, ancient beads have a subtle, soft reflection that comes from years of interaction with the world and their wearers. They do not shine with the stark, mirror-like quality of the newer beads.
 
This difference in shine is one of the key aspects used to distinguish between new and ancient beads. Through comparison, one can see how the mirror-like reflection of the newer beads contrasts with the softer, diffused glow of the ancient ones, a testimony to their respective histories.

 

 



New bead
 

 
Indeed, the distinction in the quality of reflection between ancient and new beads is significant. Ancient beads have a more subdued glow; their surface, polished by time and human touch, diffuses light rather than reflecting it directly. This results in a gentler, warmer, and arguably more profound sheen, bearing testament to their age and history.
 
In contrast, new beads, untouched by time and wear, have a sharper, mirror-like reflection. Their surfaces are pristine and undisturbed, which allows them to reflect light directly, creating a bright and eye-catching shine.

This difference in reflection quality is one of the most reliable ways to distinguish between ancient and new beads.
 
 



 
Ancient bead, worn by generations of human beings
 


Indeed, some dishonest dealers or artisans may attempt to simulate the natural patina of an ancient bead through artificial means to deceive buyers or collectors. Sand-polishing is one such technique.

During the sand-polishing process, beads are placed in a drum with sand and then tumbled for an extended period. This abrasive action can wear down the bead's surface and create a soft shine, mimicking the patina that develops naturally over centuries of human contact.

However, while this method may produce a superficially similar appearance, it generally can't replicate the depth and subtlety of the patina found on genuinely ancient beads. This artificial patina often lacks the unique character and unevenness that result from the countless human interactions ancient beads have endured. Furthermore, sand-polished beads may exhibit tiny, uniformly distributed scratches under a microscope, a sign that is typically absent in genuine ancient beads.

The practice of artificially aging beads is considered unethical in many circles, especially when done with the intent to deceive. As such, collectors and enthusiasts are encouraged to scrutinize beads closely, ideally with the help of a magnifying glass or microscope, to detect any signs of artificial aging. It's also crucial to purchase from reputable sources to avoid inadvertently buying artificially aged or counterfeit beads.
 
 



Fake bead
 


It is quite obvious that the bead above is a fake. Even this photo can show it.
However, counterfeit or imitation ancient beads can be quite convincing, and this has become an increasing challenge for both collectors and experts alike. Advances in technology and craftsmanship have made it possible to create fakes that are very similar in appearance to their authentic counterparts.
 
THE SWEAT OF HUMAN EFFORT
We now shift our focus to the intricate process of stone bead creation. In the early stages of bead making, bead production was a laborious, time-consuming task. Consequently, a finely crafted bead was a rarity and often reserved for the elite strata of society. But with the advent of new bead production technologies such as the polishing bag and diamond drill, stone beads became more commonplace. They embarked on a societal journey, transitioning from exclusive symbols of the upper echelons to more widespread adornments, finally finding their place within the poorer communities. Today, the age-old tradition of stone bead making and the search for raw agate is upheld by the Bhils (or Bheels), using the simplest of tools.

The Bhils are indigenous to India, known as the largest tribal community in the country. Revered by Gandhi as the Adivasis, or the 'original inhabitants', they represent the primordial roots of the region.

The Bhils' ancestry can be traced back to the original Indus Valley civilization, pre-dating the Vedic-Aryan settlement. One might argue that the Bhils and their beads embarked on a social detour, transitioning from the splendor of one of the world's most affluent and enigmatic ancient cultures to their current position as outcasts, marginalized and stigmatized by their newer Vedic overlords. As alluded to elsewhere on ancientbead.com, there is likely a connection between the Buddhist affinity for stone beads and the similar sentiment shared by the earlier Indus civilization.

THE DIVERSITY OF MATERIALS UTILIZED IN BEAD MANUFACTURE
Beads have historically been fashioned from a wide variety of materials, including glass, bone, ivory, wood, and even seeds such as the revered Rudraksha.

Metals like gold, silver, and bronze have also been used to create beads. Their intrinsic value, malleability, and luster have made them a preferred choice for creating high-status and ceremonial beads.

Lastly, ceramics and clay have been used extensively for bead-making due to their availability and versatility. From simple fired clay beads to intricately decorated ceramic beads, these materials provided an easily accessible medium for bead artisans throughout history.

Beads made out of stone
Nevertheless, the primary focus at Ancientbead.com lies with stone beads.
 
During the ancient era of the Indus Valley civilization, bead artisans pursued extraordinary lengths to obtain unique and unusual stone materials. As a result, we encounter numerous beads crafted from fossilized stones hailing from this period.
 
Since the Indus period the range of stones used in bead creation has been remarkably broad, and their classification can often seem perplexing and inconsistent. The subjective lens through which a geologist, mineralogist, gemologist, and archaeologist view and interpret a specific stone type can vary significantly, underscoring the inherent complexity and ambiguity present in this field.

Microcrystalline Silicates
Nonetheless, agate, chalcedony, carnelian, chert, flint, jasper, chrysoprase, sard, and onyx collectively constitute a category of closely related, yet remarkably diverse, sedimentary rocks known as microcrystalline silicates. These materials are predominantly composed of microscopic quartz crystals formed by the chemical precipitation of silica from an aqueous solution.
 

Despite their mineralogical similarity, microcrystalline silicates exhibit a high degree of visual diversity that resists easy or definitive classification. They range from entirely opaque to semi-translucent, may exhibit a monochromatic or variegated palette, and can display an array of unique patterns and banding. Thus, this fascinating group of stones offers a virtually limitless selection of textures and hues, providing ample creative fodder for the discerning bead crafter.


DIAPHANEITY: Light Interaction with Minerals
One key characteristic of minerals that's particularly important in bead making and gemology is diaphaneity. This term describes the way light interacts with a mineral's surface and passes through it.

Transparent: If light can pass through a substance undisturbed, without any distortion, the substance is considered to be transparent. This quality allows you to clearly see through the mineral. Gemstones like diamond, amethyst, and quartz are examples of transparent minerals.

Translucent: If light is able to pass through a substance, but in a distorted or diffused manner, such that objects cannot be clearly discerned through it, the substance is considered to be translucent. Many types of agate and some forms of jade and carnelian are typically translucent.

Opaque: If light cannot pass through a substance at all, it is classified as opaque. These materials absorb or reflect all light that strikes them, and no light passes through them. Examples of opaque minerals commonly used in bead making include lapis lazuli, turquoise, and most types of jasper.

The degree of diaphaneity can greatly affect the appearance and aesthetic appeal of a bead or gemstone, influencing factors such as color intensity, depth, and perceived 'glow' or 'fire' within the stone. Thus, understanding diaphaneity is crucial for both gemologists and bead artisans.


MINING AND COLLECTING OF RAW MATERIAL
The sourcing of raw materials for bead making is a critical step in the process, and traditionally the ideal location for a bead manufacturing site would be one with easy access to these materials as well as a nearby market for selling the finished products. Historically, Gujarat in India has been a major hub for this activity, providing abundant access to high-quality materials ideal for bead creation.

The ancient mines of Baba Ghori in Ratanpur, Gujarat are a notable example. These mines are dug 30 to 35 feet deep until the layers of carnelian or agate are reached. The blocks of stone that are mined, weighing one to two pounds, are brought to the surface and chipped right at the mining site. From there the stone are transported to the nearby city, Cambey.

However, the ancient history of bead making did not origin in Cambey. It began in the nearby ancient site Harappan, Lothal. Interestingly, in Lothal we find the world's earliest known dock, which connected the city to the Sabarmati river. Seen in this context it gives meaning that we find Indus beads as far away as Troy.
 
Even today, the Bheel community continues the tradition of 'hunting' for stones in the major mines of Gujarat. These mining locations and the traditions associated with them date back to the times of the Indus Valley civilization, making them several thousand years old!
 
Outside Gujarat
We must not forget that there there were (and are) a number of other locations where minerals suitable for bead-making were procured. Afghanistan, in particular, is a country rich in mineral resources, many of which were historically used for bead production.

Lapis Lazuli: Perhaps the most famous mineral exported from Afghanistan for bead-making is lapis lazuli. This vibrant blue stone has been prized for thousands of years and was a key part of the ancient trade networks extending as far west as Egypt and as far east as India. The Sar-e-Sang mine in Afghanistan's Badakhshan province has been a primary source of lapis lazuli for millennia.

Carnelian: This semi-precious gemstone, also known as cornelian, is a reddish variety of chalcedony that's been used for bead-making for thousands of years. It was often sourced from the regions that are now Afghanistan and Pakistan.

Other Gemstones: Afghanistan is also known for its deposits of emeralds, rubies, garnets, and other precious and semi-precious stones, all of which have been used in jewelry and bead-making.
 
We also have to mention the other important bead procurement places along the silk route in ancient times.

Egypt: Egypt is home to several ancient mines and quarries. Malachite and turquoise were extracted in the Sinai Peninsula, and carnelian was sourced from the Eastern Desert.
 
Mesopotamia (Present-day Iraq): The ancient civilizations in this region, like the Sumerians and Akkadians, traded for carnelian, lapis lazuli, and other semi-precious stones for bead-making.

Persia (Present-day Iran): Ancient Persia was a rich source of turquoise, a stone that has been used for millennia in jewelry and bead-making.

Greece: The island of Crete in Greece was renowned for its gold, silver, and lapis lazuli, which were used in the creation of Minoan beads. Minoan seals are among the finest ever made.

Historically, expansive trade networks such as the Silk Road connected disparate regions, facilitating the exchange of diverse goods including raw materials, finished beads, and other commodities. For instance, beads crafted in Afghanistan could incorporate materials sourced from far-off lands, and conversely, Afghan materials could be found in beads produced elsewhere.  In this way beads were travelling, even before they became beads.

Methods for Obtaining Raw Materials
Finding the perfect stone for bead making isn't easy. These mining sites often contain a significant amount of debris, including flakes of stone and stones that have cracked in unfavorable ways. These discarded materials form a sort of 'bead junkyard' that can be thousands of years old. However, nothing is wasted; smaller beads can often be made from these discarded pieces, recycling what might have been seen as waste into valuable products. This practice of reusing and repurposing materials is not a modern invention, but an ancient tradition that has been carried forward into the present day.

There have been various techniques employed over the ages to source stones for bead-making. One of the most common was to look for them in eroding cliffs or rocky outcrops. The action of wind and water often exposed suitable stones, which could be readily collected.

Another method involved a more proactive approach. A fire would be built near a cliff face, heating the stone surface. Cold water would then be thrown onto the heated cliff, causing the abrupt temperature change to induce cracking and flaking in the stone surface. This could effectively 'harvest' stone from the cliff in a controlled manner.

Searching in river beds was yet another method. River water, particularly in fast-flowing streams, has a tendency to erode and polish stones, leading to the natural production of semi-finished stones suitable for bead-making.

Once the stones were collected, flakes were struck from the nodules to assess the quality of the stone. The best pieces of agate were then left in the sun for a period of time - often several months - to draw out any remaining moisture in the stone.

Following this natural drying process, selected stones were subjected to further artificial heat treatments. As discussed in the Sulemani bead chapter, different
heating techniques were used to produce different types of beads. The first heat treatment after sun drying was usually carried out in terracotta vessels or simple pit kilns and was aimed at removing any residual moisture. This process made it easier to flake the stones, as moisture within the stones could lead to unpredictable flaking patterns.

 

 
 
THE ROUGH SHAPING OF BEADS
 






       
 

 
Unearthed at archaeological sites, these rough-outs share striking similarities with those we might find today in the bustling bead industry of Cambay, located in Gujarat, India. Their shape and markings point towards the ancient practice of hand-sawing and chipping raw stones into shape. The traditional method, termed inverse, indirect percussion (Kenoyer, 1986), was a meticulous art passed down through generations.

This labor-intensive technique required a stake, usually made from iron or other sturdy materials, to be firmly planted into the ground at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. The artisan would position himself on the ground, steadying the stake with one knee. The rough stone was held in the left hand while the right hand was tasked with gently hitting the stone against the stake. This careful percussion allowed the artisan to chip off minute flakes without fracturing the entire stone, requiring around 3 to 4 hours of painstaking effort to shape a single bead.

Before the advent of iron tools, copper was commonly used for the stake, and even earlier, deer antlers may have served the same purpose. The distinctive signs of flaking resulting from this shaping process are easily identifiable and unique to handcrafted beads.

Today, while some aspects of this age-old craft persist, many elements have undergone a shift in response to technological advancements. Most notably, the cutting of stones is frequently performed using electric-powered saws, a far cry from the hand tools of yesteryears.


DESIGN & SHAPE
The design and form of ancient stone beads often seem to have been influenced by the inherent patterns and characteristics of the raw material itself. This suggests that even at the stage of mining, the workers were on the lookout for distinct stone patterns that could eventually serve as a central motif in an exceptional bead. As a result, the natural beauty of the stone patterns was recognized and celebrated by their makers from the very outset of the process.

The Pursuit for the Exceptional Bead Amidst Urban Expansion
During ancient times, particularly amongst the Indus Valley civilizations, artisans went to great lengths to procure exotic stones to create beads of varying colors, shapes, and sizes. This effort escalated towards the end of the Indus culture and the beginning of the Classical period, around the first millennium B.C., coinciding with India's Urban Revolution on the Gangetic Plains.

This transformative era ushered in a demand for distinctive beads that could act as artistic reflections of the burgeoning self-consciousness accompanying city life. As society transitioned from pastoral and agrarian ways to a more urbanized lifestyle, the representation of status, power, and individuality through personal adornments became more significant.
 
During this period, bead making came under the patronage of kings, priests, and merchants, causing it to flourish amidst a rich cultural tapestry of patterns, colors, and exotic materials. The bead, thus, not only served as a simple decorative object but also a symbol of socio-cultural evolution, mirroring the changing dynamics of society.

 
The outstanding bead displayed below from Rakhigarhi is an example of this hunt for the urban exotic and rare:

 

 



 


Beads are indeed crafted in a wide array of shapes, largely constrained by the available technology and the characteristics of the raw material. At one end of the spectrum, we find beads that are essentially naturally occurring stones that have been smoothed through tumbling and subsequently pierced to create a hole:
 
 



 


Exceptional beads often demonstrate a high degree of artistic intelligence and skill in their creation, as is evident in the magnificent crystal tiger bead depicted below:
 
 



 


This bead stands as a testament to the craftsman's expertise and artistic vision. It demonstrates not only a mastery of technical skills but also a deep understanding of aesthetics, symmetry, and design.

The process of crafting such a bead involves more than just selecting the right stone. It requires meticulous planning, precise execution, and a keen eye for detail. The artisan has to understand the inherent properties and limitations of the material, envision the final product, and carefully manipulate the stone to bring that vision to life.

The finished bead is a perfect harmony of form, color, and texture, revealing both the natural beauty of the crystal and the masterful artistry of its creator. Such exceptional pieces transcend their utilitarian purpose as beads and enter the realm of fine art.
 

In very rare cases the artisans were composing beads through the process of cementing different types of stones with different patterns together:
 
 



15 * 6,5 mm
Click on picture for larger version
 


The bead showcased below is an example of a counterfeit bead I came across during my time in Burma as a tour guide. Local villagers would bring these types of beads to sell to unsuspecting tourists. Intriguingly, it is a composite piece, glued together from various parts. Notably, only the carnelian segments are derived from original ancient beads that were broken. I somehow still adore this semi-original bead and believe it was worth every penny I paid for it.
 
 



 



How to liberate the dormant beauty in a stone

As previously mentioned, the inherent pattern or motif within a stone often dictates the form the bead will take, and in turn, this form accentuates the motif. A keen eye for aesthetics, understanding of symmetry, and careful consideration of the stone's natural patterns are essential in this process.

 
 


 
21 * 19 * 13 * 6 mm
 


Take, for instance, the Indus Valley bead displayed above. Notice how the symmetry inherent in the stone has guided the crafting of the bead. The artisan, working with the natural design rather than against it, has highlighted and emphasized its inherent beauty. This interplay between nature's artwork and human craftsmanship is what elevates these beads from simple ornaments to true works of art.

Consider the small bead displayed below. In it, we see a prime example of this synergy between the natural beauty of the stone and the artisan's handiwork. The artisan has not merely shaped the stone but has unleashed its dormant aesthetic potential, allowing it to reveal its true beauty to the world. It’s an organic process, almost as if the stone and artisan are in conversation, ultimately resulting in a piece of art that is as much a testament to the nature of the material as it is to the skill of the bead-maker.

 
 



11 * 10 * 3 mm
 


The Golden Angle in Motifs: A Case Study from the Indus Valley
The golden angle is a mathematical concept found frequently in nature and used widely in art and design. This angle, approximately 137.5 degrees, is derived from the golden ratio, a mathematical constant found in many aspects of life, from the spiraling pattern of a nautilus shell to the branching of trees.

This principle extends to bead-making as well. In many ancient bead designs, the golden angle can be found. A fine example of this can be seen in the Indus Valley bead illustrated below.

 
 



17 * 14 * 4 mm
 


Observe the motifs and how they reflect this golden angle. The artisan behind this bead, consciously or subconsciously, has used the principles of sacred geometry to create a design that is visually harmonious and balanced. This adherence to the golden angle, whether intentional or not, gives the bead a timeless aesthetic quality, connecting it to the universal patterns found in nature and art.

I
n the Magic Eye Bead below the eye is placed in the symmetric middle:
 
 

 

28 * 19 mm
 

 
Or it can be placed in the golden angle position:
 
 



24 * 10 mm
 


Adopting Human Body Forms in Bead Design: An Exemplar Agate Bead
The fusion of art, utility, and anthropology is an intrinsic part of bead making, where artisans have traditionally kept in mind not just the aesthetic appeal but also the comfort and fit of the bead when worn. One such outstanding illustration of this thoughtful craftsmanship is seen in the long agate bead displayed below, crafted with a specific consideration for the wearer's body shape.
 

 



83 * 12 * 8 mm
 


This agate bead is expertly shaped and polished to feature a flat, bow-like side. This unique design allows the bead to comfortably contour to the curves of the human body when worn. This kind of thoughtful design is part of what makes ancient beads so fascinating. The artisan who crafted this piece centuries ago was not merely creating an adornment, but a piece of wearable art designed with the wearer's comfort in mind.


ARCHETYPICAL BEAD SHAPES
Below you will find illustrations of a few of the most typical bead forms.
 
 



Bicone



Long Bicone



Hexagonal Tube



Round Tube



Barrel


Collar


 Cylinder / Lenticular


Round tabular


Mellon
 


Ball
 

Here you will find more detailed illustrations of bead forms borrowed from the book, The beads from Taxila, by Horace Beck
 
 



Click on pictures for larger versions
 

   





 


 
Click on pictures for larger versions
 


THE GRINDING & POLISHING PROCESS
Crafting beads is a multifaceted process, with distinct stages of development entrusted to specific artisans. The miners who unearthed the raw agate from the ground were different from those who chipped and rough-shaped the beads, who were in turn distinct from those responsible for the final grinding and polishing.
 

 


Hand grinding of beads

Neolithic hand grinding stone
 


Historically, many beads were prone to breakage during the complex drilling process. As such, the bead's polishing was often reserved until after a successful drilling operation.
 
In ancient times, this polishing process was laboriously conducted by hand. It involved a succession of different grinders, starting with siltstone or quartzite for the initial rough polishing and culminating with a smooth wooden surface for the final finish. The artisans used progressively finer abrasives - like agate dust or other suitable materials - to bring the bead to its final form.
 
This meticulous hand-polishing could take an extraordinary amount of time. For instance, grinding a single large bead could take up to five days in ancient times. Today, with the aid of modern machinery, the same process can be accomplished in a mere five minutes.
 
Interestingly, the surface texture of a bead can reveal insights into the polishing techniques used. For instance, the uneven surface of the
Indus Valley bead pictured above indicates a polishing technique that used very rough abrasives. This evidence of the artisan's hand, preserved in the bead's surface, adds another layer of depth to its history and appeal.
 
 



21 * 8 * 6,5 mm
 


 

ROCK POLISHING TECHNIQUES IN ANTIQUITY
In ancient Egypt, the art of rock polishing was painstakingly performed by slaves. Stones, carefully chosen for their qualities, were manually chipped into initial shapes. The subsequent process involved placing these stones into troughs filled with a combination of sand and water. Through a repetitive back-and-forth movement in these troughs, the stones gradually became smoother, eventually achieving a polished finish. This "tumbling" technique, albeit effective, was extremely time-consuming. It was not uncommon for the polishing of a single stone to span several months.
 
Bag Polishing - Revolution of Tumbling in Ancient India
A remarkable advancement in bead polishing was introduced in ancient India with the development of a new technique known as tumbling, also referred to as bag polishing. Prior to this innovation, each bead was individually shaped and polished, either by hand-rubbing or employing a somewhat mysterious Persian method.

The advent of bag polishing allowed for the simultaneous polishing of multiple beads. Artisans would place a number of beads into a goatskin bag, along with water and dust from agate or jasper. Then, two individuals would roll the bag back and forth on the ground over a course of several days, even weeks. The resulting movement and the abrasiveness of the dust within the bag effectively polished the beads.

 

 



 

 
This ingenious tumbling method, in conjunction with the second-century BC invention of the diamond drill, laid the foundation for the mass production of beads. However, the shift towards efficiency in mass production often came at the cost of individual craftsmanship and personal touch. The societal, economic, and technological changes of the time were reflected in this transition to bag polishing.

The precise origins of the bag polishing technique for stone beads remain a subject of speculation. It is believed to have likely been developed during the late first millennium BCE, with its usage becoming more widespread during the early Common Era, in line with the emergence of large-scale bead production.

These timelines, however, are largely drawn from archaeological evidence and historical contexts, and may vary across different regions or cultures. It's also worth noting that different civilizations may have independently developed similar techniques at varying times.

Technological advancements, like bag polishing, rarely occur as singular "eureka" moments. Instead, they typically evolve and improve over time. Techniques like bag polishing would have likely undergone numerous refinements and adaptations over generations, gaining popularity as their effectiveness was proven.

 

 




55 * 13 mm
 


The large red Jasper bead shown above, with its relatively large hole, appears to originate from the Indus period, given its similarities to beads from early Indus sites in present-day Baluchistan. Interestingly, the bead exhibits evidence of having been polished in a tumbler, suggesting that the technique of bag polishing might have been known even during the time of the Indus civilization.

In this particular instance, the bead maker appears to have let the tumbling process dictate the shape of the bead. The uneven design and lack of deliberate artistic shaping suggest minimal manual intervention, which could indicate a rudimentary level of craftsmanship. This might hint at a dual-tier bead-making industry during the Indus period: one that utilized bag polishing to mass-produce simpler, lower-cost beads for the lower classes, and another that used more labor-intensive hand-polishing techniques to create high-quality beads for the upper echelons of society.
 
 



 


The bead shown above exhibits a characteristic 'tumbled design'. Notice the gentle curves and soft corners of the bead; these are distinctive traits resulting from bag polishing. This method, while efficient for mass production, tends to limit the variety of bead forms that can be achieved. Thus, the cost of mass production is often a degree of monotony and uniformity in bead shapes.
 
In contrast, the bead displayed below has not undergone the tumbling process. It has sharper edges and likely reflects a more intricate and personalized crafting process. Its design and form represent the wider range of possibilities that come with handcrafted techniques, highlighting the unique character inherent in individually made pieces.

 
 



17 * 11 mm
 

 
The time-consuming process of hand rubbing the beads had one advantage that was lost with the bag polishing: The hand shaped beads can display edges and sharp designs like you can see in the beads displayed below:
 
 



12 * 11 mm
 


The same is the case with Zoomorphic, human and other distinctive designed beads; they would lose their shape in a tumbler.
 

 



23 * 8 * 4 mm
Ancient carnelian roman/greek sword bead
 


Of course, the hand-polishing of beads did not disappear. However, the hand-polished beads got great competition from the mass producing 'new' tumble technique. Here you can see a multi-faceted carnelian bead from the British period:
 
 



11 mm
 


The sublime Mauryan bead polishing
The Mauryan period marked an unprecedented pinnacle in bead polishing, wherein artisans seemed to apply extraordinary, now lost, techniques that paralleled those used on Mauryan pottery and monuments. This supposition, while still a hypothesis, is based on the remarkably fine finish observed on Mauryan beads, as exemplified by the one shown below.
 
 



Banded Buddha
 


The Mauryan polish on agate and carnelian beads is perhaps unrivaled in any other period in history. We have no independent evidence as to how this polish was imparted on the beads, but it probably was not far from the one used in polishing the famous pillars on which the edicts (of Ashoka) were carved...
(Indian Beads - Shantaram B. Deo p.14)
 
 




Ashoka's four lions - Museum in Sarnath

These Ashoka Lions were erected on 15 meter
tall pillars everywhere in Ashoka's vast Empire.
 


Today, it is widely believed that the exquisite sandstone lions exhibited above were most likely crafted by Persian artisans. Their style, as noted in the museum's text, appears distinctively Persian. The unique polishing technique displayed also seems to be of Persian origin. The Mauryan capital, Pataliputra, appears to have emulated Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire in Persia.

It's conceivable that the rise of the Mauryan Empire was underpinned by alliances formed between residual Persian military units — left in disarray after Alexander the Great's conquest and subsequent destruction of the Persian Empire — and insurgent factions within Indian society. Notably, Chandragupta Maurya, the founder of the Mauryan Empire, was a person of lower caste who forged a powerful alliance with the renowned Brahmin scholar, Chanakya.

In this light, the emergence of the first super culture following the decline of the expansive Indus Civilization appears to have been sparked by the remnants of cultural destruction left by Alexander the Great's conquests. The Mauryan Empire, it seems, was built upon the cultural rubble of Persia, amalgamating the finest elements of both Persian and Indian cultures to form a dynamic synthesis.

This historical conjecture becomes particularly intriguing in the context of bead-making, given the convergence of Persian's supreme (and now lost) polishing techniques with India's established bead-making traditions. The result was an extraordinary blend of craftsmanship that echoed the cultural synergy of the era.

 

HEAT TREATMENT IN BEAD MAKING
The enigmatic Indus Valley civilization deserves commendation for their innovative techniques in enhancing the color of agate through heat treatment — techniques still employed today in Cambay, Gujarat. This heating process is done in multiple stages, following the initial drying and heating processes described in the 'Mining and Collecting of Raw Material' chapter. It typically takes place after the bead has been roughly shaped and the hole has been drilled.

In this process, beads are sorted based on design, color, and potential color changes, and are then placed into various clay pots. These pots are then positioned within small, low-walled brick enclosures. Surrounding the pots, a combination of ashes and cow or goat dung is carefully layered. Simultaneous ignition is crucial to prevent thermal shock.

The agate is gradually heated to a temperature around 340 degrees Celsius, with cooling also conducted slowly to prevent unwanted cracks in the stones. Even so, the process is not foolproof, and unwanted cracks can still occur during a perfectly executed heating process.

This procedure, therefore, requires the supervision of a highly skilled craftsman, trained in this craft by his father, often part of an unbroken generational chain stretching back to ancient times. It is no surprise that father's name is an essential detail in an Indian visa application, symbolizing the cultural importance of lineage and continuity. The intricate art of bead making, handed down through generations, is a testament to the enduring brilliance of these ancient practices.

 
Distinguishing Between Cooked or uncooked agate beads
When it comes to agate bead treatment, not all stones undergo the heating process. After extraction, the agate is typically separated into two categories: stones that would benefit from heat treatment for color enhancement, and those that naturally display a beautiful, translucent shine without the need for heating.
 
For the latter group, their intrinsic allure is left untouched, allowing the original hues and features of the agate to shine through in the final product. An example of this 'uncooked' bead can be seen below. Such agate beads, that are not subject to heat treatment, are often referred to as 'uncooked,' preserving their raw, authentic beauty.
 

 



17 * 14 * 6 mm
 


Heat Transformatin: From agate to carnelian
A particularly remarkable feature of certain agate stones, specifically those originating from Cambay in India, is their capacity to transform into carnelian under the influence of heat. The characteristic reddish-orange color of Carnelian, a prized attribute of this semiprecious stone, can be seen in the example below:
 
 



Cambey carnelian
 


The transformation of the grayish agate to the radiant carnelian is largely due to the high iron oxide content within the stone. When subjected to heat, the rusty iron oxide imparts a warm, reddish hue to the agate.

The uniformity of the resulting coloration depends on the consistency of porosity and iron concentration within the agate. Heat exposure transmutes the agate into a beautifully rich brownish or reddish-orange stone.

Agates with relatively uniform porosity tend to exhibit consistent coloration post-enhancement. Nonetheless, the color uniformity of carnelian also relies on the consistent concentration of iron throughout the stone. From archaeological findings, it seems that the ancient Indus people favored non-translucent, almost  opaque carnelian beads with even coloring, similar to the bead seen here:
 

 



 27 * 9 mm
 


Achieving the Ideal Carnelian Color
The process of transforming agate into carnelian often required multiple rounds of careful heating, sometimes up to ten iterations, in order to achieve the desired deep red color, which was considered top quality. You can observe this rich hue in the carnelian beads displayed at this link.


The history of carnelian production
This invention of transforming gray agate into carnelian is ancient. We can find heat treated carnelian as far back as the Neolithic period:

 
 



Neolithic disk bead from Sahara, Africa
 


Here in these very Early Indus Valley beads we can observe a beautiful blood like the color of carnelian:
 
 



 


As we journey back in time, the line between rational thinking and magic becomes increasingly blurred. The significance of carnelian beads to the Indus people remains largely unknown, but historical texts from Mesopotamia, a civilization contemporaneous to the Indus Valley, suggest a magical aspect to these gemstones. The deep red color of carnelian was believed to be associated with purification of the blood and overall health, revealing an early understanding of the concept of healing stones and their potential metaphysical properties.

Understanding Agate and Onyx
Agate is distinguished by its irregular, curved bands of various colors, formed layer by layer in volcanic rock. Onyx, another variety of chalcedony like agate, has straight, parallel bands, often in black, white, or shades of brown. These distinct banding patterns are a result of their unique geological formation processes.
 
 



Fine
circular banded Onyx and Sardonyx versus agate:




 

 
A particular variety of onyx, characterized by its carnelian iron color banding, is known as Sardonyx. However, the nomenclature around various microcrystalline silicates can be somewhat confusing. Sardonyx originally referred to a specific stone found in Sardinia. Today, however, agate that has been colored to resemble carnelian and features fine circular banding is often termed as Sardonyx. Below you can enjoy two stunning translucent sardonyx beads, or should we just call it fine banded agate or onyx beads?
 
 



34 * 8 mm
Click on picture for larger version


 



 
 



25 * 6 mm
 


 
 



Bhaisayayguru sulemani bead
 

 
The intricate process that transforms an ordinary agate into what is widely referred to as a
Sulemani agate bead in India and the far East, likely dates back to over four thousand years ago, credited to the inventive prowess of the Indus Valley civilization. Naturally occurring banded brown/black and white agate is quite rare. Typically, agate in its unprocessed state exhibits a whitish or grayish hue, as evident in the 'uncooked' Indus Valley bead shown below:
 
 



 

 
It's plausible that this bead was crafted before the advent of heat treatment for beads... or perhaps the artisans simply preferred the translucent, whitish glow of this stone. To achieve a bead similar to the brown and white banded Bhaisayaguru stone seen in the first picture, Indian craftspeople started immersing the agate stone in oil, honey, or sugar water. The sugar is absorbed more readily by the darker and/or more porous layers, but not by the denser white layers. During the heating process, the sugar undergoes caramelization, turning the porous layers into a deep black or rich brown, as can be observed in the bead shown below:

 
 



 


Nevertheless, every innovation carries a trade-off. The transformation of agate into onyx often compromises the bead's translucent sheen. Translucent beads with black stripes are a rarity, possibly explaining why the artisans of the Indus Valley chose not to treat certain beads, especially those with captivating translucent bands and white stripes. An exemplary bead of this kind can be observed below:
 
 



 


The alteration with sulphoric acid
Over 2000 years ago, bead artisans refined their techniques even further. They found that submerging a sugar-soaked stone in sulphuric acid led to the carbonization of the sugar, creating a striking black hue instead of brown. Frequently, the artisans would further augment this artificially enhanced banding through a technique that deprived the stone of oxygen during the heating process. The resulting onyx bead, a magnificent opaque black agate, can be seen below. Also, take note of the white banding visible in areas where the stone's density prevents the chemicals from permeating. These dense sections retain their natural color, providing a stark contrast to the induced black hues and adding a distinctive pattern to the bead.

 
 



 


During this era, Buddhism was predominant in India. Perhaps this is why the brown or black Sulemani onyx bead remains the most coveted prayer bead for Buddhists worldwide, even today. For more information on the heat treatment process of beads, please refer to the Sulemani Beads section.



THE ETCHING OF BEADS
The intricate design adorning the ancient bead displayed below was meticulously crafted using an alkali soda-based process known as etching. Etching is mostly done on carnelian beads.
 
 




EB  1 - 12,5 * 4,9 mm

 


Etching on carnelian beads is a fascinating process that involves the careful manipulation of the stone's surface to create intricate designs and patterns. While the exact techniques may have varied among different cultures and eras, the general principles of the process remain consistent.

Preparation: The bead begins as a rough piece of carnelian that has been shaped into the desired form. Carnelian, a variety of chalcedony, is chosen for its hardness, beautiful color, and ability to hold intricate etched designs.

Design Mapping: Once the bead has been shaped and smoothed, the artisan outlines the design onto the bead using a sharp tool. This stage requires precision and an understanding of how the design will ultimately look on the rounded surface of the bead.

Etching: The outlined bead is then treated with a solution often consisting of an alkaline soda. This could be a naturally occurring substance, such as plant ash or natron, which was used in ancient times. The solution is applied only to the areas of the bead that are to be etched. This solution selectively erodes the surface of the carnelian, carving the design into the bead.

Heating: The bead is then heated to intensify the color contrast between the etched and unetched areas. The heat causes the etched areas to turn white, while the rest of the bead retains its rich carnelian color. This temperature treatment also serves to enhance the durability of the etching.

Polishing: Finally, the bead is carefully polished. This can smooth out any roughness from the etching process and adds a beautiful shine, making the etched design stand out even more.
 
 


 
EB 1 -  13 * 11 * 5 mm - Indus Valley etching
 


This unique decorative method has roots stretching back to the Indus Valley and Harappan Civilizations around 2500 to 1500 BC. The Mauryan Period, under the leadership of Chandragupta Maurya from 300 BC to 100 AD, is recognized as the epoch when the craft of etching beads reached its zenith in terms of quantity.

From 274 BC onward, India was under the benevolent reign of Ashoka the Great, Chandragupta Maurya's grandson, during which Buddhism became the predominant philosophy. This historical context is crucial, as even today, etched beads retain a special place in the hearts of Buddhists around the world. Their historical and spiritual significance, coupled with their aesthetic appeal, ensures their enduring popularity.
 
 



EB 3  -     12 * 4,5 mm
This bead is actually not  etched,
but displays natural lines in
jasper stone.

 

 
 
 



 

 
The image above showcases an Indus Valley bead, remarkable in its original, untouched pattern. Conversely, the bead depicted below has been artificially colored to echo the natural patterns found in its Indus predecessor. This practice of etching beads emerged from a desire to create visually stunning designs that might be otherwise difficult or time-consuming to locate within the natural patterns of the stones. Instead of painstakingly searching for stones with inherent, appealing patterns, artisans found a shortcut: enhancing the banding or etching patterns directly onto the beads. This innovative etching technology was birthed during the Indus Valley era.
 
 


 
17 * 5 mm

 


Pictured above is a perfect and unique translucent agate, showcasing natural banding from the Indus Valley Civilization, dating back to 3000-1500 B.C. This precious artifact was unearthed in 1942 in Harappa, now present-day Pakistan.

Upon comparing it with the etched bead depicted below, it's striking to consider that the market value of this etched 'replica' most probably surpasses that of the original, un-etched Indus bead. I have personally no doubt what bead I prefer!
 
 



 


However, the craft of etching evolved beyond merely replicating natural patterns. Over time, artisans began to create symbolic and religious motifs, expressing intricate narratives and meanings that surpassed the limitations of naturally occurring stone patterns.
 
 



 


 
Even in ancient times, these etched beads rose to the pinnacle of popularity. They were traded extensively across the ancient world. Frequently, the techniques of color alteration and etching were combined, as exemplified in the etched black spherical bead shown below:
 
 



 


In rare cases we also find etching with black lines.
 
 


 
 




DRILLING OF THE BEAD HOLES
 
 



 


Drilling the hole in a bead is a pivotal phase in the bead-making process and significantly aids in its identification and classification. The drilling process stands as a decisive 'make or break' moment, considering the inherent risk of shattering the bead during this delicate operation. Evidence of failed attempts can be found scattered around ancient artisans' workshops, testament to the challenges this task presented.

Due to the potential catastrophe of ruining a fully polished bead - a laborious effort possibly spanning a month - the bead hole was drilled shortly after creating the rough outline of the bead. This strategic sequence minimized the risk of wasting significant time and effort on a bead that would subsequently fracture during drilling.

Creating the hole in a bead was a methodical process, usually undertaken with careful consideration for the bead's integrity. To prevent damaging the bead's ends or 'apices', holes were typically drilled from both sides, as shown in the example below. This approach ensured a cleaner finish and significantly reduced the chances of causing a crack at either end of the bead.

 

HISTORY OF BEAD HOLE CREATION

Neolithic Drilling Techniques
Incredibly, the production of Neolithic beads was accomplished with the simplest of tools! Displayed here are drills used for pecking out the holes in these ancient beads. The artisans employed a method of pecking from both sides of the bead to create a hole.

 

 



 


Interestingly, most beads from the Neolithic period are not very elongated. Given the size and shape of the drills shown above, it's understandable that the beads were primarily of a tabular form.
 
 



 


The process of replicating the ancient Neolithic method of creating bead holes is exceptionally challenging. This is evidenced by the many broken beads found at archeological sites, suggesting that bead hole creation was a complex task even for the Neolithic people.

Indus Valley Bead Hole Formation
A similar pecking method was used in the creation of bead holes in the Indus Valley civilization, a tradition which dates back to around 3000 BC. As shown in the picture, the holes of these early Indus Valley beads also reflect the pecking technique.

 

 



 


Transition to more elongated beads begins to be seen during the early Indus Valley period, around 2500 BC. In the bicone carnelian agate beads pictured below from this time period, the beads have started to increase in length, deviating from the previously dominant flat, tabular design. This evolution in design led to a corresponding increase in the complexity of the bead hole formation process. The pecked holes in these elongated beads have adopted a rough hourglass shape, indicating the skill and precision necessary to achieve this on a larger scale.
 
 




 

 
The Emergence of the Bow Drill - Facilitating the Creation of Longer Beads and Holes


Following the early Indus Valley period, a significant advancement in drilling technique emerged during the Copper Bronze Age. This advancement was critical for facilitating the creation of longer beads and bead holes, a trend that had begun in West Asia and the Indus Valley.

The bow drill, a technological marvel of its time, was invented as far back as 4000 B.C. Remarkably, this tool persists in modern times, especially in India, a testament to its enduring utility and effectiveness.

At the beginning of the Bronze Age, around 3000 B.C., the material used for the drilling part of the tool transitioned from chert to bronze. This transition resulted in more durable and effective drilling tools. In Chanhu-Daru, an early Indus Valley archaeological site, excavators discovered bronze drills measuring approximately 4.8 cm in length (as referenced in "Indian Beads" by Shantaram B. Deo, p.9). This development marks a significant step in the evolution of bead making, enabling artisans to create more intricate and elongated bead designs.
 
 



Old school bow drill
 


The advent of the bow drill marked a pivotal turn in the history of bead crafting. With this innovation, the flat, disc-shaped beads of the past lost their allure as bead-makers pushed the boundaries of their artistry in search of greater refinement and sophistication.

Another technique: Coring
Some ancient cultures, like the Egyptians, used a technique called coring to drill holes in beads, especially those made of softer stones like carnelian. This involves drilling with a tubular drill bit, which removes a cylindrical core from the bead, leaving a perfectly round hole. The presence of a core or its remnants can sometimes tell us about the drilling techniques used.

As the Bronze Age unfolded, the bow drill catalyzed an evolution towards beads of greater length, both in terms of their overall dimensions and their drilled holes. It was a transition that saw the rise of long, slender, tubular beads which captured the imaginations of both artisans and their patrons.

In the image below, you'll see an example of one such elongated bead from the Indus Valley civilization. This marked a significant departure from the earlier flat bead designs, showcasing the transformative impact of the bow drill on the aesthetic and functional aspects of bead-making.
 

 



FAB 44  - 47 * 10,5 mm  - Aprox. age: 4.200 years
 


 This bead pictured below is a testament to the evolving drilling technology of the era. The hole in this bead was created using one of the novel drill types that had been introduced at the time. These drills could have been constructed from sturdy stone materials like jasper or chert, or could even have been copper drills tipped with abrasive materials.
 
In the bead illustrated above, there's a noticeable discrepancy in the diameters of the left and right holes. This variance could suggest that the drills used for perforation were only able to bore halfway through the bead before deteriorating during the process. This illustrates that, despite the advances in drilling technology, creating elongated holes remained a challenging and time-intensive task for the bead artisans.
 
 



Left hole
 


25 * 7 mm


Right hole


Drilling technology and length of the beads
The examples provided earlier clearly highlight how the evolution of drilling technology significantly influenced bead design and shape. The innate drive of artisans to innovate and create works that surpass their predecessors sparked the development of longer, more intricate beads. This progression is markedly visible in the culture of Harappa in the Indus Valley.

Harappan artisans began with a simple technique: pecking to form a hole through a relatively flat, tabular bead. This technique evolved to incorporate drilling with tapered stone drills that were slightly harder than the material of the bead itself. Finally, Harappans refined exquisite drilling techniques specifically designed for perforating long bead stones.

This specialized drilling method was jealously guarded by the Harappans, which facilitated their creation of beads that were longer and thinner than those produced by any other contemporary culture. These slender, delicate beads were admired and sought after all over the known world during that time period. The material of choice for these beads was uniformly colored carnelian.

Evidence of the widespread appeal of these beads can be seen in the Mesopotamian Royal Cemetery of Ur, dating back to 2450 BC, where a significant number of these beads have been found. This reflects the value and prestige associated with these unique and laboriously crafted adornments.

Use of Abrasives
In many ancient cultures, the drilling of holes in beads wasn't accomplished by the cutting action of the drill alone. Abrasives, often in the form of sand or crushed hard minerals, were used in combination with the drilling tools. These abrasives would be caught in the drill bit's grooves and would do much of the actual cutting. The type of abrasive used can sometimes be identified under a microscope, providing clues about the origin of the bead. In the Indus times, jasper powder was mostly used as an abrasive.

 
The rarest drilling abrasive: Ernestite
Drilling with Ernestite, because of their hardness and durability, allowed Harappan artisans to carve beads with greater finesse and detail. It facilitated the creation of longer, more refined beads that became a distinctive characteristic of the Harappan culture.
 
Its use was one of the best-kept secrets of the Harappan civilization, giving them a technological advantage over other cultures and increasing the demand for their beautifully crafted beads.

This mineral, enriched with titanium, is believed to have originated from Gujarat, an area that had extensive trade links with the Harappan civilization. The use of Ernestite as an abrasive is a testament to the Harappans' technological innovation and their search for materials that could improve their craft.

However, sourcing and utilizing Ernestite for bead-making was not a simple process. The mineral had to be painstakingly shaped into effective drilling tools, which required an advanced understanding of mineral properties and tool-making skills. Moreover, given the rarity of the mineral, it's likely that its use was highly regulated and reserved for the most skilled artisans crafting the finest beads. These wonderful elongated beads were only produced for a few hundred years around 2.400 B.C.

 
 



Infinite Cascade
FAB 45 - 53 * 14 mm  - Aprox. age: 4.400 years
 


Hole Placement
The location and direction of the hole in a bead can tell us something about its intended use and cultural context. For example, a hole drilled from top to bottom might suggest that the bead was meant to be strung vertically as a pendant, while a hole drilled through the middle could indicate use in a necklace or bracelet.
Illustrated below is a pendant hole:

THE INVENTION OF THE DIAMOND DRILL
The invention of the diamond drill in India around 600 BC was a groundbreaking development in bead-making. This tool enabled artisans to drill holes at an unprecedented speed - over 200 times faster than previous methods! It revolutionized the entire process, turning a laborious and often unsuccessful task into a relatively simple one.

The diamond drill, made from an extremely hard material, could carve through even the hardest of stones with ease and precision. It not only increased productivity but also allowed for the creation of more intricate and detailed designs, which was not possible with previous drilling techniques.

Diamond drills also greatly improved the success rate of bead-making. Earlier, the risk of breaking the bead during the drilling process was high due to the pressure exerted by the drill. But the diamond drill, with its precision and efficiency, significantly reduced this risk. This meant fewer wasted materials and less time spent on unsuccessful attempts, leading to an overall improvement in bead production.

Furthermore, the speed of the diamond drill allowed artisans to experiment more with bead shapes and sizes. This led to a proliferation of new bead designs and styles, contributing to the rich variety of beads we see in historical records.

 

 


A new diamond drilled hole


29 * 4,5 mm
 


With the advent of the diamond drill, not only did bead hole sizes become significantly smaller, but the capability to craft larger and more slender beads also expanded. This was due to the drill's ability to carve precise, small holes without compromising the structural integrity of the bead, something that was harder to achieve with older drilling techniques.

In a rough approximation, the size of a bead's hole can serve as an indicator of its age. Larger holes often suggest the bead is relatively older, a result of less advanced drilling methods. Conversely, smaller holes are typically associated with more recent beads, a testament to the precision of tools like the diamond drill.

The diamond drill also facilitated mass production of beads. Prior to its invention, bead-making was a time-consuming process due to the slow and careful drilling required. However, with the diamond drill's high speed and precision, artisans could rapidly produce beads in large quantities, meeting higher demands and enabling wider distribution. This innovation not only impacted the quantity and quality of bead production, but also transformed their role in commerce and culture, making them more accessible across different societies.

 
 

 


 
Old drilling techniques in Cambey
 


 

The above photograph illustrates a simple, yet effective, setup for a diamond drill. The key elements are an iron rod, a stick of wood or bamboo, and a small diamond. The iron rod is attached to the stick or bamboo, essentially serving as the drill bit. At the end of this iron rod, a small diamond is meticulously secured. This placement of the diamond at the tip of the iron rod is a delicate process that requires great precision and craftsmanship.

This diamond-tipped drill design brought about a significant leap in bead-making technology. Diamonds, due to their extreme hardness, have excellent cutting and abrasion properties. This meant that the drill could bore through hard materials such as agate, carnelian, and other types of stones used in bead production, and do so with exceptional precision. Consequently, artisans were now able to craft beads with very small holes, a feature that was difficult, if not impossible, to achieve with previous drilling techniques.


A bead maker from Cambey in
the process of drilling holes
 

 

 


 
 



 


The Dual sided drilling Technique
The photo of the ancient crystal beads above clearly shows the central junction or 'meeting point' in each bead, which is a mark of this dual-sided drilling process. This technique becomes even more apparent when we examine translucent beads, as shown in the golden carnelian bead below. The remarkable joint in the center reveals the artisan's careful work in aligning the drillings from both sides.
 
 



 


Re-drilling
In some cases, older beads have been re-drilled in more recent times, either to enlarge a hole or to clean up a damaged one. This can make the dating and classification of a bead more complex.
 
 



 


THE HOLE AND THE STRING
A big hole denotes a very old bead. In ancient days, arcane drilling technology made it difficult to make small holes and the bead strings, made out of natural materials, were made thicker so that they would not break easily.
 

 



 


Wear and Tear by generations of strings
Over the course of many years, the action of a string rubbing against the hole in a bead can change its shape and smoothness. This can provide clues about the bead's age and usage.

Beads worn on strings for multiple generations can exhibit changes in the hole's shape due to natural wear and tear. The opening of the hole, referred to as the aperture, can reveal a great deal about the bead's life story.

The hole's size in a bead holds key insights into its age and the technology used in its creation. In ancient times, the limitations of drilling technology made the creation of smaller holes challenging, resulting in larger hole diameters. Furthermore, the strings used to thread beads, typically crafted from natural materials, were thicker to ensure durability, necessitating larger holes.
 
Over time, the friction between the string and the bead hole results in gradual wear and polishing of the hole's interior. If the bead material is relatively soft, or if the string material is particularly hard, the bead hole may become reshaped into an oval or otherwise modified form. An example can be seen in the image below, where the string's interaction with the bead over generations has resulted in an elliptical or oval-shaped hole. The softer the stone the greater impact the string will have on the hole.
 
 



 


Due to the string, the hole can also develop a triangular shape:
 
 



 


The bead displayed above also exemplifies how beads rubbing against each other on a string over time can create a polishing effect. The ends of this bead have been worn down and polished flat due to centuries of close contact with neighboring beads on the same string.

The bead hole's characteristics can significantly aid in verifying a bead's age. Taking a closer look at the bead with the triangular hole, you'll notice the hole is rough and jagged. This may be a telltale sign of a counterfeit bead, as ancient hole-drilling techniques generally resulted in smoother and more symmetrical holes and we in this hole furthermore do not observe the signs of the string polishing.

In contrast, an authentic ancient bead's hole typically appears more refined and smoother. This is due to centuries of wear and also the meticulous craftsmanship of ancient artisans. An exemplary bead hole should resemble the one shown below:

 
 



 


The interior surface of the hole is a key location to find the signatures of age in a bead. Consider the bead shown below. At first glance, the overall surface of the bead might appear aged, but a closer examination of the hole might reveal a different story. Is the hole's inner surface smooth or rough?

A smooth hole typically suggests an authentic, ancient bead. This smoothness comes from the wear and tear of centuries of use, with the string rubbing against the bead hole, gradually polishing it. This effect is hard to artificially replicate, making it a good indicator of age.

In contrast, a rough or jagged interior to the hole could imply a newer bead or even a counterfeit one. Often, modern or fake beads are artificially weathered to look old on the surface but fail to convincingly imitate the subtle aging of the hole's interior, a detail frequently overlooked.
 
 



 


In the picture below you will see one of my oldest beads.  It is from the early Indus Valley culture.
 
 




 


The bead-making tradition of the Indus Valley Civilization is particularly renowned for the precise and beautiful holes it produced. The craftsmen of this ancient culture were skilled in creating remarkably straight and smooth holes, a testament to their high level of technical ability and artistry. The meticulous crafting of these holes added to the overall aesthetic appeal of the beads, making them sought-after items in their time. Below are more examples of these remarkable Indus Valley bead holes:
 
 

 

 


Examining the masterful holes crafted by the world's first bead makers is truly fascinating. However, determining a bead's age and origin based solely on one attribute can be challenging, particularly in the case of ancient beads from 'Greater India'. These beads were widely exported and travelled as far as their human owners ventured.

Greater India was a diverse melting pot of various cultures and societies, which existed side by side for thousands of years. Each culture employed beads, but their bead-making technologies varied. For instance, the Harappan civilization crafted beads of significantly greater complexity than many of the subsequent cultures.

This complexity and diversity make understanding the history of beads a richly multifaceted subject, as every culture added its own unique techniques and influences to the art of bead making.

 
 

 

 


TECHNOLOGY AND BEADS
The evolution of technology and its influence on beads and their perception in society is truly fascinating. Whenever a new technology emerged that allowed for easier mass production of beads, these adornments gradually lost their exclusivity, moving from an elite status symbol to objects of mass appeal. This shift invariably diluted their allure among society's upper echelons, who sought rarity and uniqueness in their talismans. Consequently, the continuous technological advancements in bead production eventually caused the semiprecious agate bead to lose its coveted position, being overshadowed by more precious gemstones.

This process, however, was not linear. For instance, towards the end of the Indus Valley era, the quest for exotic bead materials somewhat counterbalanced this trend. As bead production became more accessible, the rarity and uniqueness of the material itself gained significant importance. This led artisans to seek out distinctive materials and push the boundaries of their craft, pursuing intricate designs and complex forms, such as extraordinarily long and slender beads. They also invented more sophisticated methods of etching and artificially coloring beads, which eventually led to the creation of remarkable DZI beads.

Nowadays, the allure of stone beads has been rekindled, with age serving as the passport to prestige. An ancient bead, irrespective of its material, is automatically elevated to a status of desirability and charm. However, it's important to note that the market is replete with beads carrying false claims of age, posing a significant challenge for collectors and enthusiasts in their quest for authentic ancient beads.

 

 

 

 

   
Litterature
Contemporary stone beadmaking in Khambat, India: Patterns of craft specialization and organization of production as reflected in the archaeological record
Jonatan Mark Kenoyer, Massimo Vidale and Kuldeep Kumar Bhan

The Important Stone and Metal Resources of Gujarat during the Harappan Period
Randall Law

The beads from Taxilla
Horace Beck
 

Wikipedia
 

 

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Contact: Gunnar Muhlman - Gunnars@mail.com